In Langa: Barolo

Conterno Fantino one of my favorite producers. Taken at VinItaly.

Trentino Alps: Mercatini a go-go!

In December M his parents and I went on a two night three day wirlwind trip of the Mercatini’s in the Trentino Alps region of Italy which is known for skiing and its Christmas markets called Mercatini’s. From Bergamo its about three hours . Click here for a map of the area and the towns that we visited.  If you clicked on the map you will see that we were very close to Germany and Austria, I think that Innsbruck was only another hour away. In this area of Italy people speak both German and Italian. All the signs are in both languages and  you hear people speaking  both on the streets. It was a really interesting experience. It felt like we had left Italy.

Our first stop was Caldaro where the  Strada del Vino -wine road starts. There are a lot of wineries in this area that make really amazing wines like gewurztraminer. If any of you know M  and I you know that we had to stop a few wineries other wise this trip would be incomplete. But first food.

I was a Monday so its very difficult to find places that are open for lunch. But thankfully we found this amazing place in Caldaro called Kalterehof.  Our server  who was speaking in German to the table next recommended  the special. It was a plate of sausages, sauerkraut and spatzele- which is a typical pasta from the area.  Well, we were amazed when this big silver plate appeared.  All of it was amazing. There were these amazing dumplings that were basically bread with speck and cheese rolled into a ball. The yellow stuff that looks like corn is the spatzele which is made with flour, water, milk and speck. I may be forgetting something but you get the idea. We left will full and happy bellies.

Lunch at Kaltererhof

A little bit of everything.

After lunch it we got on the Strada Del Vino and off to the first winery. The drive over was incredible vineyards on both sides of the road as far as you can see with the mountains in the background. Really something.

Strada Del Vino

Could this be heaven?

So our first stop was Tenuta Kornell.

Wine glorious wine!

Stairs leading out of the cantina.

Next was Cantina di Terlano.

Very old bottles of wine.

Wood carved barrel.

We toured both wineries, sampled some wines and bought a few bottles.Each winery has some elements that are the same but each his unique in its own way. I don’t think that I will ever get tired of visiting wineries. I mean can you say free wine?

Next stop Merano. We arrived after dark checked into to the B & B  Gastehaus Rieder and walked down to the Christmas market.

Christmas market in Merano

The lights in the market.

Us in Merano

The next day we toured Merano and then we were off to Vipiteno.  They also have a Christmas market. Not as big as the one in Merano but just a nice.

Us in Vipiteno.

Christmas Market Vipiteno.

After a quick tour we were off to Brunico to tour the Christmas market. We arrived just after dark. Just in time to see the lights go on and have a hot cup of mulled wine!

Brunico Market

The next day we went to Abbazi di Novacella which is a large complex of mideval buildings including a convent, church and cantina dating from the 1100′s.

Us in front of the Abby

Covered bridge to the Abby

Then after that we were off to Bressanone and another Christmas Market.  That is four in three days if you are counting.

Us in Bressanone

M's parents.

Christmas market Bressanone

We picked up some sausages and discovered my new favorite beer.

Forst- my new favorite beer!

After three days of touring we headed back to Bergamo a little tired but happy to have  seen so much. I am looking forward to going next year. I think we might shave it down to two mercatini’s.

Wine

A few weeks ago we went to the Friuli region of Italy for two days to tour a winery. One of the perks of M’s job. Friuli is the most east and north part of Italy it boarders Slovenia and the Adriatic Sea. Its about a 3 hour drive from Bergamo via the autostrada. We packed up and left early so that we could go to Palmanova before we had to be at the winery.  We finally arrive at Palmanova. I was really excited to see it because the whole city is behind medieval wall and from the areal view of the city the walls form a nine point star.  It was a fort at one point. The center square area is where the market was and the main streets that lead from the square take you out of the city. You can see in one of pictures below part of the wall and the port.

We decided to go out into the country and find a true Friulian place to eat. What we found was Elliot Enoteca and Ristorantino and we had the best lunch with the best wine, did I mention that the wine was 2 Euros a glass? The view was amazing, it over looked miles of vineyards. What a perfect way to get to know Fruili!

Anyway, I loved the wine that I was drinking and wanted to buy a bottle. I had never had this grape before. It’s called Ribolla Gialla its a lovely white perfect for a hot summer day! The server told us that we could go to the winery and buy it there; it was just around the corner. Great! So we jumped back into the car and turned on to this dirt road with rows and rows of grapevines on both sides. We finally find the place (joy!) and it’s this small lovely winery. There was one guy working and he had to call the boss so that we could buy wine. He came in work boots and shorts and began pouring us wine. It was very casual and great. Two (purchased) cases of wine we were off to the winery that actually came for. But what a happy accident!